Elphin to Lochinver Path

Introduction

This is one of the few through paths in the region - and what a cracker it is too. From the south east end the path starts just outside Elphin, passes Cam Loch, Lochan Fada and Loch na Gainimh as it runs between Suilven and Canisp. It then forms the usual approach path to Suilven along the very pretty valley past Suileag and Glencanisp Lodge before dropping down a narrow lane into Lochinver village. Obviously with such a long linear path return transport can be a problem. However it is perfectly possible, with a bit of organisation, to use the early morning bus from Lochinver to get to Elphin and use the long summer day to make the most of this walk. The terrain is rough underfoot in the central section, but it is well walked and is easy enough to follow (care needed in low mist). For the fit and enthusiastic an ascent of either Canisp (if you must) and Suilven is possible from the path.

Our Walk

First thing to say is that we were not organised and did not attempt the through walk. The weather was fine and sunny and time was spent taking photographs - even so this makes a very pleasant return walk if the surrounding tops are clear.

The path starts at a gate just East of the bridge over the river between Elphin and Ledmore; there is space for a few cars on the verge. A new finger post points boldly towards Lochinver.

After a short distance the path meets the head of Cam Loch - revealing a magnificent view to Suilven across the water. As the path skirts the shoreline the hills to the west, Cul Mor, come into view. On our day the loch was an absolute mill-pond giving perfect reflections in the water of the hills. We spent some time taking photographs of the view before strolling on round the loch side.

The path is well defined, climbing a little to clear low crags, and crossing the deer fence at a large and creative gate - the original iron gate having been extended by wooden attachments. The next kilometre is a gentle stroll along grass path and stoney shoreline with open views across the water.

After crossing a stream draining Loch a Chroisg from the north, the path leaves the loch side and strikes up a gentle slope to gain a crest running north. The ground soons becomes rougher underfoot as the heather covering becomes thinner and the underlying rock is exposed. Having gained the crest the path floows it northwards, passing just west (left) of the highest point. The way is cairned - which would be most helpful in low mist as the immediate surroundings are pretty featureless. This is high moorland and though under 1000ft above sea level, we could hear the distinctive rasping call of Ptarmigan. Near the summit rocks we saw one of the birds scrurrying between the boulders - very distinctive in summer plumage with red eye stripe and white feathers on the thighs.

The bulk of Suilven is hidden by intervening hillside, Meall na Braulaich, but the narrow top is seen end on as you reach the highest point on the ridge - an unusual summit outline to say the least. To the right the dark water of Loch a'Chroisg is backed by crags with the high ridges of Conival on the horizon above. The path now swings to the north west towards the long Lochan Fada that runs at the foot of the long ridge of Canisp - possibly the best view of this mountain. A little height is gained in order to cross the watershed.

The path continues over rough ground to cross the outflow of Lochan Fada at the far end (ford ?) and follows in the bottom of a steep sided valley for a further 2 km to reach the shore of Loch na Gainimh. Staying to the NE of the loch the path crosses the river at a bridge just beyond the loch, just short of the point where the boggy path to Suilven strikes across the moor. In addition to this path there are stalkers paths marked on the map that lead up on to the flanks of Canisp, and to the lochans under Meall na Braulaich. The two latter paths taking you up on to high ground, after which routes to the tops will be pathless and rough.

From Loch na Gainimh the path is well walked and extremely pleasant, running 9km into Lochinver village though the road end is reached beyond Glencanisp Lodge some 2km short of the vilage. We have walked this part of the path a number of times on our ascents of Suilven.

Having passed the day taking photographs and eating lunch we retraced our steps along the path to Cam Loch. The breeze had got up so the flat reflective water of the morning had gone but it was still warm enough to tempt us into the shallow waters for a refreshing dip. We returned to the car along the shore in the warm afternoon sun.