Beinn Uidhe

Introduction

Beinn Uidhe is a long, flat ridge of a summit that forms part of the extensive ridge running to the east of the main road taking in Breabag in the south, Conival and Ben More behind Inchnadamph in the centre and Glas Bheinn to the north. Beinn Uidhe is not an obvious target to climb since, as already noted on other pages, the long flat ridge is strewn with rocks and boulders. The summit ridge is hidden from the main road running along the shores of Loch Assynt by the shoulders of outliers. For lovers of dramatic scenery and solitude this area is highly recommended. The tops are some 600ft (200m) lower than the more popular Munro summits but here you are unlikely to meet anyone. For longer trekking the paths extend to the north and west through some very remote terrain.

This section of the long ridge is well served by stalkers paths with branches running to the cols to the SE (at Loch nan Cuaran) and to the NW (under Glas Bheinn) making a traverse an obvious choice. Strong walkers would take in Glas Bheinn and even traverse this to reach the road again at Loch na Gainmhich. As this was a top not climbed previously - we made a day out of it.

Our Ascent

In 2004 we had delayed our holiday until early September - now able to miss the annual school holidays in England. The only drawback of this is that it gets dark a good bit earlier than in the height of summer. This year we hit on a week of fine weather and it was on a bright, sunny morning that we (just the two of us) parked the car at the Inchnadamph Hotel car park, at the SE end of Loch Assynt. The track to the River Traligill (and caves) starts just across the bridge and passes the rather impressive Inchnadamph Lodge - much improved after renovation works.

The approach starts by following the valley track - the approach to Conival and Ben More - for the first 800m or so before striking off in a north easterly direction up a steep grassy shoulder opposite an old footbridge. This path is not walked heavily - most wlakers charging on up to the two neighbouring Munros and leaving the large area to the north west well alone. We would not see another soul all day long.

After an initial climb, and passing through an old iron gate (no fence wires left - just a gate), the path contours as it traverses up the valley above the Allt Poll an Droighinn. The main path is heading for Glas Bheinn so it climbs north to cross the shoulder towards the high valley holding Loch Fleodach Coire. Before this is reached, a small seat and shelter has been built beside the path - facing towards the hills to the NE. The intention is clear - the first to return can sit and await his collegues in comfort. Just in front of this the path divides (marked by a suitably modest cairn) with one route heading north to Glas Bheinn, the other turning west towards the obvious col and (the hidden) Loch nan Cruran. Water from the lochans above descends in gullies between the steep cliffs to the south east - noisy and spectacular after heavy rain - and the approach path makes an arc to the left to find an easier line of ascent.

The path to the west is not as clear as the northerly branch and some care is needed in following it. After crossing the flat ground it starts a 600ft (200m) ascent beside a small stream - the Allt Tarsuinn. At the 500m contour the path turns right (SE) and takes a rising traverse below a line of crags. The path emerges at the side of the sizeable Loch nan Cuaran beside a large boulder. The surroundings are dramatic - the main ridge forms a crest of broken rock and grass at the far side of the water. To the right the ground rises in long ridges to the heights of Conival - becoming increasingly broken and rock strewn as they rise.

It is not clear as to the best way forward. The main ridge is still some 300ft (100m) higher but as the top is wide and long the actual summit is not easy to pick out (though it can actually be seen from here). The traditional approach would be to strike to the lowest section of the col - on the far side of the water - and gain the summit from there. This however takes in an extended length of difficult terrain of broken rock and, as the summit to Beinn Uidhe is well to the left (NW) a more direct route is a better bet. There is actually a very faint path taking the shallow ridge to the north (NNE) - but we missed this and ended up on the wide plateaux to the SE end some 1.5km from the true summit. From here it is a long haul over very broken ground and hefty sized rocks. This makes for slow going as you pick your way to the slightly raised summit knoll and cairn (well plenty of rocks to make one).

The views are, of course, extensive - particularly those to the North and East looking out over some of the most remote terrain in Scotland - this takes in Arkle and Foinaven, with Ben Hope and Ben Loyal on the skyline. To the NE Glas Bheinn blocks out Quinag - with only the occasional top visible behind. To the SW the immense size of the Conival and Ben More Assynt massif is clear. The view to the South is into the sun and reveals unfolding ridges of the hills through Assynt and Coigach.

To complete the traverse involves a further 2km of very rough ground - the boulder field is unrelenting - before a modest descent to the path at the col under Glas Bheinn. We took the easy option to return along the route we had come up thus saving us 4km. From above it is easier to see the lay of the land and we could work our way just above the southern escarpment making the most of the strips of grass. This avoided the worst of the rough boulders but care is needed not to lose too much height too soon as rising crags bar the way.

We eventually reached grassier ground above Loch nan Cuaran and as we picked a way down we stumbled across the faint path - better late than never. As we reached the lochside a four engined military plane roared overhead just clearing the ridge. Clearly on some training exercise.

From here it is an easy going walk out being down hill virtually all the way. We had not seen a soul and it was only as we reached the valley track beside the River Traligill that we met parties returning from the big tops. We stopped for a refreshing dip in the river before strolling the final few hundred metres back to the car park. As usual we were the last ones off the hill.