| Name of Top: | Stac Pollaidh |
| Height: | 613m (2011 ft) |
| Map Reference: | OS Sheet 15; NC 108107 |
| Our Ascents: | August 1980 From 1990 onwards |
Stac Pollaidh, or Stack Polly in its anglicised form, needs no introduction. We first visited the mountain in 1980 - in the distant days before children - on a Sunday whilst waiting for the next Ullapool to Stornaway ferry. The mountain is not high, only just clearing the 2000 ft level, but it has an unmistakeable outline when viewed from any angle and provides an outing that can only described as 'great fun'. The narrow crest of Torridonian sandstone is the result of extreme weather erosion and provides excellant opportunities for scrambling among and over the pinnacles and ridges.
The mountain is climbed from the narrow road that leaves the main A835 at Drumrunie and runs through to Achiltibuie. Half way along Loch Lurgainn, 8 km from the main road, there is a car park from where the ascent up the steep slopes to the ridge is obvious. The venue is a popular attraction and if the weather is good there will be alot of people about, however most people are back down and gone by mid-afternoon after which you will have the area much more to yourselves. For a real treat: bring a fresh loaf and some real butter with you, drive on to the Smokehouse at Polbain to buy a pack of sliced smoked salmon and then return to the car park. A lunch of smoked salmon sandwiches will set just the right sort of mood for the rest of the day.
We have climbed the mountain several times and so no specific chronology is required. The direct paths up the steep southern slopes have become heavily eroded and if it is wet the peat surfaces will be slippery and loose. In 1996 we found that the first stages of the path have been rebuilt with flags to prevent even further deterioration; on the higher and steeper ground this is going to be an even more difficult proposition for the authorities. We invariably choose to bear right after the first slope, climbing to circle behind the eastern buttress of the mountain. This route is still mucky underfoot but is a more gradual ascent and gets you higher on the northen side before you are forced to resort to the loose screes. You also get a good introduction to the hidden area behind Stac Pollaidh and to the east towards Cul Mor.
Guide books also indicate that you can start the climb from the path at Linneraineach, 2km east along the road: you are much more likely to be on your own as you approach over the heather slopes, but it induces a sense of frustration as want to get on to the ridge quickly to start the real fun of the day. It probably takes no longer by this route, but the descent will leave a walk along the road at the end of the day and the children are firmly of the view there is no merit whatsoever in this non-standard approach route.
Once round on the northern side a large cairn marks the last section to the col. You can choose the direct route up loose scree, or weave up numerous paths to gain the ridge. From there it is an easy scamble to the eastern top where you can sit and survey the start of the main ridge and eat those sandwiches (if not already consumed). The surrounding rocks are so steep that usually any wind is thrown over the summit and you can settle down out of the breeze. Andrew was only four on his first climb and he promptly fell asleep on the top; when he awoke he started playing hop-scotch on the rocks much to the consternation of his mother!
The
most eastern top is a little lower can be reached via a path on the
northern side although it involves an awkward step. But the main
attraction is the ridge that stretches to the west. The first section is
the most awkward and we usually duck this on the southern side, climbing a
steep gully further along to regain the ridge. After this it is more
straigtforward and you can decide just how difficult to make the
scrambling. It is only around 300m along the ridge but it will take a
while to complete - there is no need to rush. Beyond a rather exposed step
- a narrow ledge with an overhanging rock that is more easily tranversed
by the smaller bodies in the party - you reach the buttress that guards
the final and highest top. There is no way round this and it has to be
climbed direct. It is not difficult as there are plenty of holds but it is
climbing as opposed to scrambling - and of course you have to come back
down again. We take a lightweight rope to provide protection (and
re-assurance) for the children and they have both climbed the buttress
more than once - we even got Angela up it once. Beyond this it is a short
and narrow traverse to the summit cairn perched over the steep western
buttress.
The views over the western seaboard are magnificent with the sands of Achnahaird clearly visible far below, to the north lies Suilven and Canisp with the 'hidden' side of Cul Mor to the east. The southern aspect is usually viewed into the sun and is filled by the Coigach ridges. The atmosphere of the ridge changes completely if there is low cloud about, the grey rocks and pinnacles take on an eerie and overwhelming character as they disappear and reappear through the swirling mist and you can hear - or shout to - others who are perched on nearby rocks that are obscured from view.
The southern gully near this western end (second gully from the buttress) provides an alternative, and interesting, ascent. We explored this is in 1996 by taking the path that steers well left of the main col as it climbs. It is a steep route and the ground is even more loose than elsewhere, but it takes you into Pinnacle Basin that is surrounded by a myriad of weird pinnacles, including the remarkable Lobster's Claw. The only place in Scotland that I know of to surpass these rock formations are the pinnacles around Quiraing and The Storr in Skye. Climbing out of the top of this gully Andrew pulled on some rock that came away in his hand - it nearly sent him back down the scree slope.
The
descent involves the return along the ridge to the col and thence we
usually opt for the direct and steep descent to the car park. It is steep,
it is loose and can be very slippery if the ground is wet. When Andrew was
very young, and his body somewhat top heavy, I tied a leash around his
waist to stop him disappearing head over heels down the mountainside. He
really enjoyed himself as he launched his body down the gulleys - more
often than not catching me off balance so that we both ended up in a
giggling heap in the peat. The shouts and laughter filled the mountainside
and drew much comment from other walkers. The next year I opted for a
longer length of rope - which gave me more of an opportunity to stay on my
feet and not get tripped up as much. By the time we reached the foot of
the hillside Andrew's backside was black with peat yet the outing placed
this mountain as a permanent favourite in his eyes.
Undoubtedly the descent on the northern side is easier on the knees and joints. Coming down this way late on an August afternoon in 1996 we disturbed a herd of 8 deer as we rounded the eastern buttress. Those who rellish the steep descent have to settle down to await the arrival of those in our party who hate this type of hillside and take the slopes at a much more sedate pace.
It has already been noted that the ascent path had been rebuilt in it's lower stages in the season before 1996. We passed the car park and start of the footpath in 1999 to notice that the next stages of the ascent have also been rebuilt - taking a diagonal line from fairly low down to turn the eastern shoulder of the mountain. Direct ascents up the south face are being discouraged and already the slopes show a marked recovery from the severe erosion they were suffering. Work was still continuing in the summer of 1999 with a helicopter being used to transport dumpy bags of grit/gravel to points high on the eastern and northern slopes. Once placed you could pick out the path as a line of white dots diagonally across the hillside. There will soon be a fully made up path all the way to the ridge.
