Into Knoydart

Introduction
Day Two - Inverie to Sourlies
Day Three - Sourlies to Strathan
Day Four - Strathan to Corryhully in Glen Finnan
Day Five - Back to Glenfinnan

Glenfinnan, Mallaig and Inverie

Day One, Monday 4 August, 1997

Rucksacks ready at Glenfinnan Station

The weather forecast was set as fair as could be hoped for so we set off to Inverie. We had moved to Corpach, Fort William, on the Saturday and spent the Sunday watching the annual Glen Nevis River Race. We prepared the rucksacks, packing away the larger Vangos in preparation for a quick get away. The food more than filed a large plastic bucket - 4 days of meals for 4 people plus an extra evening meal. This seemed reasonable on a day by day basis but looked a lot all together - we were a bit concerned that we would have enough. We left travel details with the police in Fort William.

The Jacobite Steam train pulling into Glenfinnan

We were packed ready and away in plenty of time for the train at Glenfinnan. We parked the car by the station and strolled on to the platform in time to see the Jacobite Steam Train arrive with it's full payload of tourists. The train stopped over for a while to allow the visitors time to wander around the museum that is now occupant of the main station buildings. Susan amused herself seeing many family snap shots and video sequences she could star in. Once the train had left there was time to have a cup of coffee whilst we waited for the 12:30pm service to Mallaig. The weather was bright and sunny - set as fair as promised by the forecast.

Our Sprinter train arriving

The Sprinter service to Mallaig was busy. We sat opposite a party of Americans who were travelling up the West coast aiming for the Kyle and Skye. The rail journey itself was as spectacular as always with the mountains bathed in sunshine. At the coast there were clear views over a calm sea to Eigg and Rhum, with the Cuillin of Skye in full view to the North. The fare for the 50 minute journey was just over £13:00, two adults and two children.


The Western Isle ferry

We found the ferry for Inverie at Mallaig. A small ferry, The Western Isle, running Monday, Wednesday and Friday each week. In addition to the Royal Mail and other supplies for the village, there was one large party returning for a family gathering, some people stopping for a few days and others taking the afternoon cruise round Inverie and Tarbert. We got some fish and chips and ate these on the boat whilst awaiting our departure. The ferry left at 2:15pm and cost us £12:00 for four one-way tickets.

The sea was calm and skies sunny as we crossed the entrance of Loch Nevis towards Inverie. The Cuillin and other islands looked magnificent across the almost perfect mill pond of the sea. All too quickly the islands disappeared behind the headland and we turned in towards Inverie itself, passing a statue positioned on a prominent islet at the entrance to the sea loch. The tide was very low and we circled for a while before pushing gently in towards the pier. We had taken across a small dingy which was clearly there as an alternative means of disembarking - happily there was just enough depth of water to allow us to dock at the pier. A large proportion of the the passengers disembarked, to be replaced by as many others - mainly walkers - travelling out.


Looking back to Rhum

It was now 4:00pm and very hot under the sun. We bought an ice-cream from the small village shop before setting off along the shore-side road - we reckoned on covering some 5km before pitching the tents for the night. Inverie also offers a guest house, pub - The Old Forge (the most remote pub in Mainland Britain), the estate office and a 'camp site'. As we walked past the church the vibrams on our boots left impressions in the tarmac surface. This did not last long as the area has a very limited length of metalled surface and we soon found ourselves on a rough track as we climbed behind the trees and headed up beside the Inverie River. A large monument of a cross on a cairn was perched above us on a prominent knoll. The footpath soon divides and a signpost indicates the two options. We crossed the Inverie River by a magnificent new wooden bridge - a structure that would grace any formal garden.


The tents pitched by the river in Gleann Mendall

We found a pitch further along the path beside a much simpler bridge at the bottom of Gleann Mendall. The site was protected from the sea by a small knoll and ahead lay the long steady climb towards the 600m high col that we would cross the following morning. There was just time for a swim in the river, then cook and eat supper before the wind dropped and the midges appeared. These promptly drove us into the tents even though the sun graced us well into the evening. A lone walker suddenly appeared to pitch nearby - he was gone by the time we got up next morning.


Introduction
Day Two - Inverie to Sourlies
Day Three - Sourlies to Strathan
Day Four - Strathan to Corryhully in Glen Finnan
Day Five - Back to Glenfinnan