This was the hardest
day of the week as the distance to be covered was the furthest, and the paths
were reportedly poor. It was also still hot and sunny - not ideal for long
distance walking.Introduction
Day One - Glenfinnan, Mallaig and
Inverie
Day Two - Inverie to
Sourlies
Day Four - Strathan to
Corryhully in Glen Finnan
Day Five
- Back to Glenfinnan
This was the hardest
day of the week as the distance to be covered was the furthest, and the paths
were reportedly poor. It was also still hot and sunny - not ideal for long
distance walking.
We got up promptly if not early, we were packed and on our way by 9:30am to find a good path up the head of the valley. A burn was bridged above the waterfall and the path zig-zags the steep flanks - some of this built up by stonework. It took us only one and a half hours to get to the top of the climb - thus getting the hard part of the day over before the full heat of the sun.
As the
view back down Loch Nevis was left behind the valley floor adopts a more even
gradient and the path continues along the South side of two lochans sheltered
between the high ridges closing in on both sides. The path is a bit rough (and
wet) in places but easily followed. A short scramble up the last few feet takes
you to the top of the col and the head of a much wider and shallower valley -
Glen Dessary. It was still only midday so we continued down the valley for half
an hour before stopping for lunch and a brew.
From here it was a short stretch
to the edge of the forest that covers Glen Dessary. We had been advised that
the new forest path was the better option - the original path stays just above
the trees beside the deer fence - so we crossed the high stile to enter the
trees. The path has been forced by a four wheel drive vehicle and twists and
turns down steep shoulders heading for the valley floor. It then follows the
streams though more twists for over 1km making you pretty disorientated - it is
probably even more off-putting when taking the opposite direction as the
effects of gravity are then against you. Finally the end of the path is reached
at a strong bridge over the river that gives access to the end of the forest
track proper. The river here has cut down into the rocks with deep pools -
ideal for a swim but with quiet a distance still to go and a couple of cyclists
nearby we decided to push on.
The track is not (yet)
enclosed by high trees and it gives good views as you descend the valley.
However not wishing to stay in the trees and preferring to search for any
breeze that might be about we crossed the valley to the old track passing in
front of the bothy at A'Chuil. The river is bridged by a recently restored
(1996) structure - a plaque on the far side dedicates the bridge to a local
shepherd from A'Chuil. This was too inviting and we stopped for a quick
swim.
Beyond a knoll the house of Upper Glendessary comes into view - the couple in residence were completing a repainting in white - very smart. After a short chat we pushed on down the track in hot sunshine coming to the smart house of Glendessary lodge, complete with mown grass and garden seats. The track continues to the road end from Loch Arkaig and Strathan.
The
next main target is the pass at the head of Gleann a' Chaorainn and the
intention was to camp at the foot of the valley. To get there we followed the
forest track through the trees towards Glen Pean for about 1km. A few broken
branches and a scratch of a path indicates the point (or a point) to set off
south through the trees in search of a bridge. After a bit of scratching
around, and a few signs of previous feet, we located a gate in the forest deer
fence. Locked. Looking back along the fence revealed a stile - why the two do
not coincide is a mystery. Over the stile, then across the River Pean by bridge
leaves you on the east side of Allt a'Chaorrain. After a bit of searching about
we found a flat space large enough for two tents. We pitched and then headed
upstream a few hundred metres for a swim under a small waterfall. By now it was
getting late we cooked whilst the breeze was still around - after this the
midges soon came out and it was time to retire to the tents for the night.
Introduction
Day One - Glenfinnan, Mallaig and
Inverie
Day Two - Inverie to
Sourlies
Day Four - Strathan to
Corryhully in Glen Finnan
Day Five
- Back to Glenfinnan