Across The Fisherfield and Letterewe Forests - 2

Title to this Walk
Day One - Poolewe to Carnmore
Day Two - Carnmore to Kinlochewe
The Aftermath

Day Two - Not a Day for the Tops

Wednesday 9th August, 2000

It rained all night. It sounded worse in the tent - and even worse in the shed - and as a result there was little enthusiasm for the day.

Returning over the Causeway - the gate now in place

We delayed getting up whilst we considered our options. Exit to Corrie Hollie was too far - bearing in mind the river crossings - to guarantee a finish in time for the Wednesday bus back to Poolewe. If this was missed the next one was on Saturday.

Another misty day of walking with no views seemed best accomplished with the wind/rain behind - a direction taking us back to Poolewe. Kinlochewe was a long way but offered a pub supper and a known campsite. The bus from here was on Thursday evening. Sitting tight was not an option as all weather forecasts gave no indication of 'improvement'.

We set off at 10:30am towards the causeway - Letterewe would be considered at the path junction (we opted for the slightly further but lower pass to the west of Meall Mheinnidh). The tops were not hidden but seen only as outlines in the wet grey mist. As we turned west along the shore of Fionn Loch it started to rain again.

Resting on the path through Strathan Buidhe

An hour later the pary was split - one for Poolewe, two indifferents and one thinking the route to Kinlochewe should be taken. The weather looked better. We turned south on a good path that climbs slightly through Strathan Buidhe towards Letterewe - some 5km away. An easy enough walk with a (reported) panorama of the Torridon Hills at its peak - our views showed mountains firmly in mist and shrouds of rain passing through the glens. Somehow none of this rain crossed Loch Maree and we were rewarded with a dry afternoon.

Letterewe itself is a neat and impressive dwelling - painted white and well maintained. The launch set off across the loch as we droped down a steep path - crossing a major stream by bridge before meeting up with the more direct Carnmore path over Bealach nan Sac. As expected a notice reserves the privacy of the house grounds and you are directed around the walled sections to pick up the track heading east. It is pit tricky working out exactly where you are, but following a loop in the track through the trees you head towards the cottage shown at Furnace. We missed the track and had to scout for the bridge over the mouth of Abhainn na Fuirneis. This bridge crossing is essential.

The summit cone of Slioch is on the left, Loch Maree ahead

Here we stopped for a lunch of soup and the usual bars and biscuits (2:30pm). From here the path loops behind the house - gaining the open hillside through an old deer-proof gate in the fencing. Although faint to pick up at the start, the path is reasonably clearly defined as it sets off along the north-east side of Loch Maree. Some sections on the steep hillside are overgrown with heather whilst the lower sections are waist deep (nipple deep in places for some) in ferns. The path is not particularly well frequented and sections could well disappear over time.

The path stays high above the loch traversing sections just under the rocky outcrops. Several streams are crossed, one in the woods is a mammoth cut in the hillside and the path drops steeply into the gully. The woodland along this section is of old natural origin and fallen trees litter the path. The overhead canopy prevents the growth of heather and bracken making for much easier walking.

Looking NW along Loch Maree

The first major landmark - excepting the range of mountains across the water - is a small bay and isthmus about half way to the Slioch approach path. Progress to this point is made in good time but the second half proves much rougher and slower going. The path gains height in a series of minor climbs to cross above the lochside cliffs. Rough stones and boulders hidden in the heather and bracken makes for much harder going under the heavy packs.

Following the old Postman's Path

The end of this section is defined when the path drops to a wide, boggy hollow with a sizeable waterfal at it's head. The path loops around the edge of the bog and would make an ideal camping site if the pub were not so close. The sun came through the clouds for a while - although the rampant midges detered us from a prolonged stop. It was also getting late in the afternoon and we were tired, but we were aware we still had some way to go.

The waterfall towards the end of the pathA final traverse of a rocky plateau and a sharp descent to the lochside brings us to the (rickety) wooden bridge over Abhainn an Fhaisgaigh. This is the foot of the ascent to Slioch and the remaining path to Kinlochewe is well walked. It was now 5:30pm and we still had over an hour to go before our long awaited pint and supper.

The path to Incheril (and car park) is not as easy as one expects - it is rough in sections as it traverses the foot of the hillside slopes just outside the deer fencing. A short-cut of fording the River Kinlochewe (thereby gaining the campsite at Taagan without the 7km loop through the village) was investigated but the recent rain had made it too deep and fast to cross safely. It was head down and into the village.

The final few hundred metres of tarmac made a welcome change and four tired and footsore walkers piled into the Kinlochewe Hotel just after 7:00pm. We had made it - but it had been a very long day indeed.

The final descent to the Slioch path at Abhainn an Fhasaigh

The Aftermath

By the time we had drunk and eaten our fill it was nearly 9:30pm as we set off along the road on the half hour walk to Taagan. It was virtually dark as pitched two tents in the damp and midge infested air. Not seeing the lumps and bumps in the ground made for an uncomfortable night for some.

The next day had to be planned - the bus went through at 6:50pm - a full day in Kinlochewe. The day dawned wet - again - so we got up late and walked down the road for a full cooked breakfast at the cafe. By the time we had finished it was almost 12:00 noon - time for a pint? Thinking that we should work up an apetite first we returned along the road for a browse around the Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre. Then back along the road to the hotel for a drink.

A cloudy Beinn Eighe range over Kinlochewe River

The (rest) of the afternoon was spent walking the road (again) to fetch the tents - another wet and midge infested pack. All day the mist hung low and rain returned regularly. We were pleased not to be walking. After a final wait at the bar for the bus we piled the rucksacks into the boot and clamboured aboard. The Inverness service at Kinlochewe is also met by the Torridon Sheldaig Service allowing walkers to get down to the head of Loch Torridon. The trip back to Poolewe took about an hour and cost £10.00 for three adults and one half fare - one of the last times Andrew qualifies for the child rate.

The car was now accompanied by another sporting a note 'Back Sunday PM' beside a guide book on the Munros. We drove back to Gairloch for a supper of fish and chips, reported in at the police station and pitched back at Big Sands. It was still wet and midge ridden. The next day we packed up and returned home.

Title to this Walk
Day One - Poolewe to Carnmore
Day Two - Carnmore to Kinlochewe