Introduction
Day Two - Duag Bridge and Loch a' Choire
Mhoir
Day Three - Seanna Bhraigh
and back to Knockdamph
Day Four -
Return to Ullapool
We had dropped the packs at the entrance to the quarry road whilst we
parked the car - saving a few hundred yards through the streets with large
packs. It was hot and sunny as we set off along the quarry track just after 11
o'clock. A rough path diverts walkers away from the quarry buildings - the
workman eyeing us in that 'You must be mad' way as we plodded through steadily
on the uphill track. The quarry itself is about a mile from the road and it is
only when this is passed that you get any feeling that the route is worth the
attention. The entrance to Rhidorroch Estate is reached at a gate sporting the
traditional 'Walkers Welcome - Private Road - No Cars' notice - cars can be
parked in a small area to the left saving a bit of effort if desired.
Like many rivers in this region the final section falls through a gorge forcing the track to climb to the 100m contour over the hillside. Once the shoulder is gained a long view up the wide and flat Glen Achall opens up. As in common with other estate driveways, although the first section is not surfaced the track has a tarmac surface as far as the main lodge. The drive drops to the valley floor sweeping across the river on a new bridge to follow the north side of the glen eastwards. The house at Rhidorroch nestles amongst trees halfway along Loch Achall just over a mile away. The valley is open with a modest cliff confining the north side. In the distance the higher hills make a welcoming backdrop.
With a good hard surface and a virtually flat drive to follow progress can be made at a good pace. Rhidorroch House is set back in the trees and cannot be seen from the loch-side track. The tarmac surface ends here and the route continues on a well maintained rough surface (a notice from the Estate asks drivers to take it slowly and avoid any potholes). Past the boat house we pushed on along the lochside; glancing back we could just see the top gable of the substantial main house sticking out of the trees. The hillside to the left (north) becomes steeper and higher - just beyond the head of the loch a large gash has been cut by one of the streams falling from the plateau above, the Eas a' Chraosain. The highlands had had virtually no rain for weeks and all rivers were very low, many smaller streams were completely dry. With the easy walking and we reached the small cottage at Cadubh a further 4km along the valley just 2 hours after leaving the main road. Here we stopped, drew some water from the river for a brew of soup and a bite of lunch.
Continuing along the valley the cliffs above rise sharply to over 1000ft whilst the scenery on the far side is somewhat more gentle. The track continues to the houses at East Rhidorroch Lodge; these are located on the opposite side of the river and reached (for vehicles) by ford or (for walkers) by suspension bridge. The map shows two paths climbing the southern hillside one heading for Leckmelm on Loch Broom and the second crossing into Glen Douchary. From this distance we were not certain we could pick them out and any planned traverse was likely to be rough going and require good navigation.
East Rhidorroch Lodge marks the end of habitation and the start of the
wild country. The track now becomes somewhat rougher although still passable to
4WD vehicles. The next three kilometres involves a short sharp climb at the
beginning followed by a flatter section before a significant climb to 250m to
turn the hillside and cross the watershed. A final view back down Glean Achall
with the winding river and clumps of natural woodland is most picturesque. In
the distance the unmistakeable profile of Beinn Ghobhlach fills the end of the
valley.
The track makes for the south west end of the 3km long Loch an Daimh, the main branch dropping to the boathouse. Ahead the scenery is one of broad slopes covered in rough heather. The map shows a second path crossing the hillside to reach the lochside halfway along and continuing to the bothy at Knockdamph. On the ground this junction is marked by a sign that has lost its message and the path to Knockdamph is now a rough 4WD track. On the opposite hillside the path from Strath Mulzie could be made out and noted for use a couple of days later. On the far hillside a small coppice of trees still stands whilst the remnents of dead trees litter the area. The peat contains many old stumps and roots from a forest that covered the area many years ago - a valuable source of wood for the bothy at colder times of the year.
We pushed on along
the rough track to reach the lochside. All the cross streams were completely
dry and we wondered whether we would find any running water for the evening
meal. After a further kilometre along the lochside, as we topped a small crest,
we caught a glimpse of the two chimneys of Knockdamph Bothy and shortly
afterwards we are standing at the door. This is a relatively spacious building
with two ground floor rooms, sleeping space is located on the first floor and
in a third room on the ground floor. The building is sited just above the path
set on a small knoll which catches the slightest breeze - or a stiff wind in
our case - and keeps the midges at bay. We were relieved to hear the faintest
of a bubbling from the adjacent stream and we were able to fill the water
container from the slight flow tumbling over the rocks. Not much - but enough.
The rooms were relatively clean and we settled down in the late afternoon
sunshine for a brew of tea and supper.
Apart from the local residents/estate workers we had
seen nobody else since leaving the quarry workings just outside Ullapool. From
reading the bothy book it is clear that this is a popular staging post for
walkers on the Fort William to Cape Wrath pilgrimage - and also an annual visit
of Duke of Edinburgh students from Glenmoriston School. We had time for a quick
swim in the loch before the sun dropped behind the hillside. Looking South East
along the loch An Teallach's unmistakeable profile was bathed in the evening
sun.
Having washed the dishes from supper and made an evening cuppa we
settled down for an early night; a pack of playing cards and old copies of
Trail and Climber magazines helped while away the last of the evening light.
Introduction
Day Two - Duag Bridge and Loch a' Choire
Mhoir
Day Three - Seanna Bhraigh
and back to Knockdamph
Day Four -
Return to Ullapool