Introduction
Day One - Loch Achall and
Knockdamph
Day Three - Seanna
Bhraigh and back to Knockdamph
Day
Four - Return to Ullapool
Nobody was in a rush to get up the next morning and it was 9 o'clock before we rolled out of the sleeping bags. Two hours later we were packed and set off north east along the open valley. Although the weather had been bright at first it soon clouded over and we reckoned on rain before long.
The track follows the outfall from Loch an Daimh, Abhainn Poiblidh, for
4km before crossing the river before it flows into the larger Rappach Water. We
were caught up by two 4WD jeeps full of fishermen, although we were able to
match their progress over the final section as they struggled to get the
vehicles across the washed out stream crossings. At the ford crossing the car
occupants went in search of a suitable fishing pool - a bit lucky to find one
we thought given the very low water levels. We cross the river easily and
turned east towards Duag Bridge. By now the rain caught up with us and we were
in full waterproofs as we passed through a gate and dropped to the substantial
track that runs up Strath Mulzie.
A number of routes run north and each from this point but our target was to the south. There is a large shed at the junction but there seemed little point in walking up to it. Turning right we were walking upstream again with a panomara of wide open hillsides ahead. The rain eased as we walked on, past a two wire suspension bridge across the river that no-one fancied having a go at, heading for the houses at Corriemulzie Lodge. We stopped for some lunch at the cottage 500m before the main lodge, settling down next to the river. The stove nozzle was found to be blocked and had to be stripped down, cleaned and reassembled in order to brew some water for soup. It started to rain again and we retired to a shed for shelter, just behind a meterological rain gauge.
With the rain and the overcast surroundings of rounded hillsides and heather spirits were somewhat dampened. A sign from the Estate 'Walkers - Leave cars here' didn't help either - it is permissable to get to this point using your own car. Corriemulzie Lodge is composed of two well maintained, white painted houses set on either side of the track. Both were occupied, a young lad fitting out a fishing rod. Passing between the houses and through a gate the panorama ahead changed entirely. The valley widens and is flat and the high mountainous ridges of Freevater Forest fill the skyline. The eye is drawn to the dramatic peak almost directly ahead. This is Creag an Duine, a subsidiary peak to the more rounded, but higher, Seana Bhraigh. Suddenly the prospects change and the enthusiasm for the walk returns. The weather was also clearing and the rain departed.
The bothy at Loch
a' Choire Mhoir is still some 8 kilometres away, two hours walking. The track
divides at the half-way distance, one spur running on to the hillside above
Glen Douchary (cross this glen and pick up a path that returns to Inverlael),
the other following the main river up to Coire Mor. At the junction a
substantial footbridge provides a crossing of the river to the eastern bank -
this bridge could be crucial if the river is carrying too much water to allow a
fording 2 km further upstream. Such considerations were irrelevant and we were
able to pick our way across the ford easily without getting our feet wet.
The map indicates a path rather than a track for the final section but
again use has changed this into a rough 4WD track all the way to the door of
the bothy. By now the high ridges of Seanna Bhraigh were close at hand and the
dramatic spur of Creag an Duine coming into view as the path turned south east
was both dramatic and tantilising. The final approach climbs slightly over the
shoulder of Meall an Daimh Bhig before reaching the outfall to the loch. The
bothy is a small hut set on the north east shore half way along the 1km long
loch. The setting is dominated by the steep angular crag opposite that falls
right to the loch side. The valley continues for a further 3km, a virtually
flat valley floor that is completely hemmed in by cliffs well over 1000ft high.
A setting that can only be described as 'stunning'.
Inside the bothy we found sofas, armchairs and even beds/mattresses
crammed into the two small rooms. Really too much furniture for the space,
certainly one of the more luxurious furnishings we have found. The adjacent
stream was flowing freely and provided ample, if somewhat brackish, water. The
bothy book went back over five years and gave protracted and interesting
reading. This remote bothy is not often visited but always impresses those that
do make the long trek from the distant roads. Also to hand was a copy of a
guide to Seanna Bhraigh across the loch (most useful) and a literary reference
to "Mountaineer's Elixure' - equal quantities of hot bovril and navy rum. This
mix is said to raise the spirits, shorten distances, reduce angles of ascent
and improve the weather. Must be marvellous.
The sheltered corrie had its drawbacks though, as the wind dropped the
midges appeared in their hoards. We lit coils in the kitchen area to keep them
out of the hut as we cooked supper. Sleeping mats and bags were spread out on
the floor of the sleeping area, Andrew opting to use one of the beds. Squeaking
sounds heard from the depths of the walls were later identified as resident
bats in this remote and beautiful spot.
Introduction
Day One - Loch Achall and
Knockdamph
Day Three - Seanna
Bhraigh and back to Knockdamph
Day
Four - Return to Ullapool